Thursday, September 24, 2009

friday mosque


herat's masjid-i-jami/friday mosque/blue mosque, built in the 13th century, is a stunner.



just look at the tilework. an historian friend who accompanied us to herat explained that these patterns are not unique to tile. the islamic world possesses great gifts in the area of mathematics, + they are reflected in these amazingly precise, symmetrical patterns that are used in everything from architectural elements to textiles. the patterns are so ubiquitous, so ingrained into the aesthetic sensibilities of craftspeople, that perhaps it is not even obvious to them that they are repeating designs.



the mosque maintains a tile workshop, where artisans enact painstaking restorations.





my friends, james + kunduz, who speak dari, attracted crowds of curious kids everywhere they went!


it was such an honor to be welcomed into this beautiful sacred space.

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

falling


[tile detail from mosjid-jamé/friday mosque/blue mosque of herat]

this morning, while skyping with one of my two west coast life coaches, our chatter was interrupted by increasingly loud helicopter sounds. over the internets, these noises resembled the buzzing of angry bees. suddenly, it became clear that a helicopter was about to land on my rooftop - the sound was excruciating + the wind nearly blew the glass out of our windows. when we ran onto our terrace to see what was going on, we were shocked to see a group of u.s. helicopters radiating around our home + from two doors down onward, dust + smoke completely obscuring the landscape. a bomb?



[unmasked eid celebrant w/toy gun]

our security company reported back about 5 minutes later than a u.s. helicopter had made an emergency landing within a 1/2 block of our house. we have the tallest building in these parts, + i think it nearly swiped us. ridiculously frightening!


[the workers are busy working]

chaos pursued en route to the german clinic. i was delighted to see three donkeys grazing by the roadside but was completely flummoxed as i watched one poor soul tumble into the v. deep drainage ditch! the driver pretended not to understand me when i cried for him to stop. happily, the dear donkey did manage to right himself + was left looking just a bit confused but not apparently too hurt to return to his grazing, which he was conveniently able to continue from his stance in the ditch.



[sweet friends]

the germans confirmed my self-diagnosis of h. pylori bacteria ("thousands + thousands of bacterias swimming in your stomach") + also said i have some sort of secondary infection, so i'm on 4 different antibiotics, oh my. i can't say that i'm surprised that there's something fishy going on . . . i was awakened this morning by a dream in which i was the new devotee of a religious leader who lived in an edible building resembling the taj mahal. as we approached the compound, one of my fellow devotees instructed me on my new job: "the leader has two dogs: care bear and care bear. they each need their own private time in the yard but also time together. you must manage this."

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

tia

i learned a new acronym from a student: tia (this is afghanistan), used mostly to describe the bewildering barrage of terrifying + hilarious moments that comprise life here . . .

take, for example, being a tourist in such a country. the lonely planet could use a little updating + perhaps a chapter on the life of a vegetarian in wartime (oof!).


more ubiquitous in herat than the burqa is the chador.



after a little too much grab-assing in the bazaar, i bought one. the standards of dress in herat are even more conservative than kabul - i was literally man-handled by an offended guy who happened not to appreciate the unobstructed view of my lower arm.



but the razor wire is cute - made to look like tree branches. even the birds are fooled.



the nazari hotel of herat


this photo was taken prior to the aforementioned grab-assing. you see the obvious problem with the sleeves, not to mention the immodest leggings.



and yet, heratis enjoy snooker.


Monday, September 21, 2009

transport





kabul/herat to + fro + in between:

an adventure, for certain.











[massoud @ kabul airport]
















[travel by tuk-tuk (zaranaj) (rickshaw),












with maximum enthusiasm!]













[pamir airways terminal, herat airport]











[herat baggage claim]

Friday, September 18, 2009

eid mubarak!

a good way toward revived, with all thanks due to the wonders of german medicine.



+ off to herat, despite a few rumblings . . . never was/never gonna be the retiring sort.

xoxo

Thursday, September 17, 2009

airborne





no herat weekend, after all.


i have successfully evaded the various kabul illnesses that strike most internationals - illnesses primarily due to the lack of a sanitation system, the abysmal water quality, + the 30% fecal matter (!) found in the city's air.









no more . . . it looks like i probably have h. pylori bacteria or something similar. the german clinic is taking good care of me, but i am v. sad to miss seeing lovely herat. perhaps another opportunity will arise . . .











in the meantime, i may be found at peach house,

nursing seltzer +

listening to barking dog ...

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

uh oh

i don't think this has been circulated much . . .

an interesting follow-up on sultan munadi (listed here as an unnamed "colleague").

****************************

Al Qaeda calls for foreign kidnappings in Afghanistan

A senior al Qaeda official has called on the Taliban to kidnap foreign civilians in Afghanistan to force U.S.-led forces to negotiate prisoner exchanges, a former Australian police counter-terrorism analyst said.

The directive has been issued by veteran al Qaeda adviser Mustafa Hamid, also known as Abu Walid al Masri, and stems from the U.S. detentions in Guantanamo Bay, Leah Farrall told Reuters on Wednesday.

Farrall, who had worked for the Australian Federal Police, said she had found the al Qaeda internet document, written in late July, while completing a PhD on al Qaeda at Monash University in Australia.

The document, "The U.S. Soldier in Afghanistan - the first step for the release of all prisoners of the war on terror," argues the capture of a U.S. soldier earlier this year should serve as a precedent in a campaign of abducting Western civilians to negotiate the release of Taliban and al Qaeda prisoners.

Farrall said the document rallies against the U.S. treatment of Guantanamo Bay prisoners and calls on the Taliban to treat their enemy the same, citing examples of kidnapping campaigns by Hamas and Hezbollah.

But whereas some al Qaeda kidnappings have led executions, Hamid does not call for hostages to be harmed.

"He does not speak about executing prisoners at all. It's all about hostage taking and holding the hostages and negotiating. There is nothing about what to do with them if negotiations fail," Farrall said.

"He also talks about using the bodies of dead servicemen and pretending that they are still alive. He certainly does not advocate killing at all," she said, adding that Hamid had, until now, been regarded as a moderate voice in al Qaeda.

Six weeks after his directive was released, New York Times journalist Stephen Farrell and his Afghan colleague were kidnapped in Afghanistan. British journalist Farrell was freed, but his colleague was killed in a rescue raid in early September.

Farrall said the capture of the journalist suggests the Taliban may be considering Hamid's advice as he is very close to Taliban leaders Mullah Mohammad Omar and Jalaluddin Haggani.

In the document Hamid said he fought alongside Haggani in the Afghan-Soviet war and personally delivered Osama bin Laden's oath of allegiance to Omar, said Farrall.

Australia's Ambassador for Counter-Terrorism Bill Paterson said that while kidnapping campaigns had been used by al Qaeda, militants in north Africa and the Philippine's Abu Sayyaf rebels, it was unclear whether the Taliban would adopt such a tactic.

"The Taliban learn from al Qaeda and possibly vice versa," Paterson told Reuters in Sydney.

"But the Taliban are their own people and there is some evidence that some in the Taliban see al Qaeda in their midst in rural Afghanistan and Pakistan as intruders and foreigners."

Hamid has been detained in Iran since 2003 but remains an influential figure in the militant movement and maintains contact with his followers through jihadist websites, said Farrall.

The document calling for kidnappings of Westerners first appeared on an internet source page Farrall has been tracking for several years, but has since been posted widely on al Qaeda forums.

Farrall said she wrote about the document in an article in The Australian newspaper on Wednesday because of concerns other militant groups may see it as a call to kidnap Westerners.

"It has been posted on the forum that is used for al Qaeda strategic communications," Farrall said. "Prior to this his work had had a fairly limited distribution."

"My concern is this document has now gone out to wide readership of groups with different agendas, who may take the idea but not necessarily take the precautions of looking after the hostages and holding them."