Saturday, November 7, 2009

ttfn

i left kabul on monday via pamir.


the telltale wagonwheel shaped pol-i-charkhi prison in the distance . . .


little plane chases the big plane . . .


helicopter island is but one example of the stunning landscape between kabul and dubai!


i happily relaxed in dubai for two days before trekking back to new york.


v. happy to be home, but thinking a lot about kabul friends, hoping the best for them. ttfn, afghanistan!

Sunday, November 1, 2009

bbq

lovely bbq on friday at zuhra's . . .



the highlight for me was her new puppy, pluto - a total sweetheart!






how many professors does it take to open a winebottle with a kebab skewer?



pluto has limitless curiousity!


Saturday, October 31, 2009

skateistan

skateistan grand opening on thursday!


[i was proud to be there, along with the ambassadors of denmark + germany + the head of afghanistan's olympic committee]


[we all appreciated this visual juxtaposition]

so many talented skateboarders! it was such fun to see them demonstrate their moves.





[germany's ambassador to afghanistan -- an ardent supporter!]


[a friend, tamara, in her media role!]


[talking strategy!]

Thursday, October 29, 2009

holding pattern

things seem a little calmer today + hoping that will hold.



skateistan has the grand opening of its skate park this afternoon. security is assessing whether we will be able to attend, + hopefully the answer will be 'yes.'

i would much prefer to post more photos of cuties on skateboards rather than of me stewing on lockdown - fingers crossed . . .

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

u.n. guesthouse

[u.n. guesthouse]

it has been a terrible morning. we awoke to news that a u.n. guesthouse in kabul had been bombed + the people inside taken hostage. there is an ongoing gun battle + at least 5 people have been killed.


[gunshot in the front door of a hasher, living nearby]

i am at work + things are quiet + seemingly safe here, but this is not a good sign. things have been escalating in kabul over the past few days with the demonstrations, + now this. the taliban has taken credit for the attack + it is definitely tied in with the elections happening here next week.

[view from the hasher's house]

i am supposed to leave on monday + will try to hang tight until then. a v. sad + stressful situation.

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

driving ms. lazy

kabul's really making its mark in my dreamlife . . .



last nite's installation concerned a local speedwalking competition for internationals in which i was a participant.

all of our guards/escorts were along the sidelines in case of trouble . . .



v. quickly, people started cheating by getting their drivers to pull up their cars to give them rides.

even i was guilty of this! my favorite driver pulled up in a really dramatic way, laughing his head off, + proceeded to tear-ass around the other cars (much as he really does) in order to get me to the finish line first.

huh?

and just in time for halloween: a short film, AFGHAN SUFI HORROR made by a friend, aman mojadidi, as part of an art show he had in kabul . . . as my internet access is so poor, i can't actually watch this except in 5-second fragments, but it looks awesome!

Monday, October 26, 2009

the chinatown connection

peaceful protests again today throughout the city.


apparently, yesterday's demonstration that i was told had to do with banking instead involved water management!

afghanistan's mountains accumulate a lot of snow in the wintertime, + the melting of this snow fills the kabul river basin. this good, clean water flows through streams, rivers, + other bodies throughout afghanistan (which does not have adequate facilities to deliver it -- hence the huge issues here with water contamination). it also provides neighboring countries (iran, pakistan, tajikistan, uzbekistan, turkmenistan), with a great deal of what constitutes their water supply. afghanistan receives no benefit for this.

discussions about water management always make film nerds like me think of roman polanski's chinatown, in which there was sneaky business going on with dam-rigging, well poisoning, + other aqua-intimidation tactics. in afghanistan, there is some of the same, but perhaps for more community-oriented purposes (although there is always the issue of palimpsest--story within story--that one has to consider here).



from what i can gather from afghan colleagues, a member of parliament has called for afghanistan to immediately block (dam?) all mountain water flowing out of the country to other nearby countries. the reason: by cutting off the water supply, it is hoped that this will force these countries to stop collaborating with the taliban by secretly (or not so secretly) furnishing them with arms and other tools to be used in their insurgency operations in afghanistan. the protesters are making their support of this proposal known by gathering at parliament.

the simultaneous demonstrations happening here this week: one, against nato/isaf/u.s. forces for the alleged quran destruction and the other, against the neighboring countries in the region, indicate to me just how confused + fragmented things must feel to people here. depending on whom you talk to, the enemy is the u.s., the enemy is iran, the enemy is taliban, etc., etc., etc.

it is good that the people are demonstrating their will, and, by + large, it sounds like the protests have been peaceful. it will be interesting to see if anything comes of this water ban proposal, which sounds like it has the grain of a good idea (dams) but would be nearly impossible to implement in a timely manner, when urgency would seem the critical factor.